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IIIThe stone

The stone comes first.

Four disciplines practised daily in the atelier. Nothing is subcontracted that carries the signature.

Stone Nº 001

Origin—
Weight—
Cut—
Colour—
Certificate—

Recorded only when documented.

Selected for character, not simply perfection. Form follows the stone.

IVStone library

Eight stones, read as material.

Notes on how each stone behaves in a composition. Weights, origins and certificates are recorded only for stones that carry documentation.

  • Emerald

    01

    Emerald

    Beryl

    Colour
    Deep green, often unevenly distributed
    Cut
    Emerald cut
    Character
    Visible internal character, veils and crystals

    In jewelry design, emerald often behaves less like a neutral centre stone and more like a source of colour around which the composition is built.

  • Ruby

    02

    Ruby

    Corundum

    Colour
    Crimson to slightly purplish red
    Cut
    Cushion, oval
    Character
    Silk-like internal needles, strong internal glow

    Ruby carries more visual weight than its size suggests. A small ruby can dominate a composition, which is why it is often placed off-centre rather than at the middle of a piece.

  • Blue sapphire

    03

    Blue sapphire

    Corundum

    Colour
    Velvety blue with visible banding
    Cut
    Oval, cushion, calibrated cuts
    Character
    Colour zoning, fine internal silk

    Sapphire tolerates repetition. Because its colour stays consistent across many small stones, it is the stone most often used to draw a continuous line through a piece.

  • Yellow sapphire

    04

    Yellow sapphire

    Corundum

    Colour
    Honey to lemon yellow
    Cut
    Cushion
    Character
    Clean crystal, warm even body colour

    Yellow sapphire changes the temperature of everything around it. Placed next to white diamonds it makes them read cooler, which can be used deliberately.

  • Spinel

    05

    Spinel

    Spinel

    Colour
    Raspberry red to hot pink
    Cut
    Octagonal, cushion
    Character
    Exceptionally clean, bright internal reflection

    Spinel is prized by designers for its clarity and its slightly electric colour. It is used where a red is needed that does not carry the historical weight of ruby.

  • Copper-bearing tourmaline

    06

    Copper-bearing tourmaline

    Tourmaline

    Colour
    Neon blue-green
    Cut
    Emerald cut, free forms
    Character
    Glowing colour, veils and internal fractures

    This tourmaline is unusual because its colour appears to emit light rather than reflect it. In a composition it must be isolated, or it will overpower every other stone.

  • Diamond

    07

    Diamond

    Diamond

    Colour
    Colourless
    Cut
    Round brilliant, baguette, rose cut
    Character
    Geometric facet architecture, grey and white internal reflections

    Diamond is usually read as light rather than as colour. In these studies it is used to draw lines and edges, which is why baguette and rose cuts appear as often as brilliants.

  • Fancy-colour diamond

    08

    Fancy-colour diamond

    Diamond

    Colour
    Cognac, amber, champagne
    Cut
    Radiant, cushion
    Character
    Crushed-ice brilliance, internal graining

    Fancy-colour diamonds sit between metal and gemstone. Their warm tones can be used to make yellow or rose gold appear to continue into the stone itself.

  1. 01

    Diamonds

    Selection by eye before certificate: cut first, then colour, then clarity. Stones are chosen for behaviour in movement, not for paperwork alone.

  2. 02

    Coloured gemstones

    Ruby, emerald, sapphire, agate, turquoise. Provenance is recorded when known and never invented; treatments are disclosed in writing.

  3. 03

    Setting

    Hand setting and hand finishing. Metal is worked so the stone sits low, secure and alive against the skin.

  4. 04

    Restoration

    Existing jewels are studied before anything is touched. Where a piece should be left as it is, we say so.

Every enquiry receives a written answer from the atelier, not a catalogue.

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Don Leon  /  1860  /  Beirut